Winter Escape Jacket |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Knitted jacket with round yoke in DROPS Nepal. The piece is worked top down with Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 205-3 |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size in A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch. KNITTING TIP-1 (for bands): On the rows with 2-colored pattern use the background color over the 5 band stitches on each side. KNITTING TIP-2: To avoid the knitting gauge becoming tighter when working pattern it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem. Make sure the knitting gauge is correct in height, if this is too tight the yoke will be too short and the armholes too small! INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 82 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 4) = 20.5. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 20th and 21st stitch. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body): Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches) make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at each marker thread; 4 stitches increased on round). On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch. DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. BUTTONHOLES: Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole. The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm = ½"-¾". Then work the other 5-5-6-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 8-8-8-8-8½-9 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛"-3¼"-3½" between each one. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JACKET: The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front, top down. You can work an elevation in the back of the neck for a better fit. This elevation can be left out; the neck will then be the same front and back – see description further down the text. Buttonholes are worked on the right band. After the yoke the body is continued back and forth on the needles. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down. NECK: Cast on 80-84-96-100-104-108 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and goldenrod. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm = 1½". Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 1-2-0-1-2-3 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 81-86-96-101-106-111 stitches. Change to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and purl 1 row from the wrong side (band stitches in garter stitch). Now you can work an elevation in the back of the neck or go straight to yoke if you do not want an elevation. ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK: Skip this section if you do not want an elevation. Insert 1 marker mid-back, between 2 stitches in sizes M, L and XXL and in the middle stitch in sizes S, XL and XXXL (= 40-43-48-50-53-55 stitches in from each side). Start from the right side with goldenrod and knit 11-11-12-13-13-14 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 22-22-24-26-26-28 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 33-33-36-39-39-42 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 44-44-48-52-52-56 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit to end of row. Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. YOKE: Read KNITTING TIP-1 and KNITTING TIP -2! The first row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 over the next 70-75-85-90-95-100 stitches (= 14-15-17-18-19-20 repeats of 5 stitches) work A.2 (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern until there is 1 row left in A.1 and A.2. There are 263-281-317-335-353-371 stitches on the needle. Work the last row in A.1 and A.2, AT THE SAME TIME adjust the number of stitches to 257-285-315-333-355-373 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Work the next row from the right side as follows, with A.3 over A.1 and A.4 over A.2: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, 38-41-45-49-53-56 stitches as shown on the first row in A.3 (= front piece), place the next 48-56-62-64-66-68 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 75-81-91-97-107-115 stitches as shown on the first row in A.3 (= back piece), place the next 48-56-62-64-66-68 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 38-41-45-49-53-56 stitches as shown on the first row in A.3, work A.4 (1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! BODY: = 173-185-203-221-239-257 stitches. Insert a marker thread in each side in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.3 over the next 162-174-192-210-228-246 stitches, A.4 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue with A.3 and A.4 until they have been completed 1 time in height. Then work stockinette stitch with goldenrod and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 15 cm = 6", increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads. Increase every 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm = 1½"-1½"-1½"-2"-2"-2" a total of 5 times = 193-205-223-241-259-277 stitches – read INCREASE TIP-2. When the piece measures 34-36-36-38-38-40 cm = 13⅜"-14¼"-14¼"-15"-15"-15¾" from the division, work 1 row from the wrong side where you increase 39-43-45-51-53-59 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 232-248-268-292-312-336 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work from the right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, *knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work this rib for 4 cm = 1½", bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jacket measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜" from the shoulder. SLEEVE: Place the 48-56-62-64-66-68 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 54-62-68-72-74-78 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-10 stitches under the sleeve. Work A.3 over all stitches, AT THE SAME TIME on the first round adjust the number of stitches to 54-60-66-72-78-78 stitches. When the piece measures 4 cm = 1½", decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread under the sleeve; decrease every 5-3-2½-2-2-2 cm = 2"-1⅛"-1"-¾"-¾"-¾" a total of 7-10-12-14-15-15 times = 40-40-42-44-48-48 stitches – read DECREASE TIP. Any stitches which do not fit into A.3 are worked in the background color. When the sleeve measures 35-36-34-35-33-34 cm = 13¾"-14¼"-13⅜"-13¾"-13"-13⅜" from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke), knit 1 round with goldenrod where you increase 8-8-6-8-8-8 stitches evenly spaced = 48-48-48-52-56-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and work rib (= knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm = 2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl; make sure the bind-off edge is not tight. Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew buttons onto left band. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
Comments / Questions (34)
Astrid wrote:
Hallo, für diese schöne Jacke gibt es die Farbe Pistazie nicht. Farbnummer 1477. Was kann ich denn alternativ nehmen?
26.05.2023 - 15:04DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Astrid, gerne wird Ihnen Ihr DROPS Händler damit (auch per Telefon oder per E-Mail) helfen, die besten passenden Farben zu finden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
26.05.2023 - 15:22Lucia Battisti wrote:
Buongiorno un chiarimento in merito a questo modello , sto realizzando la taglia media, ho quasi terminato lo sprone, (mancano 6 giri di A 1 e A2 alla fine) misurando dall.'alto dopo i 4 cm delle coste ho 20 cm devo terminare o posso finire i 6 giri? Grazie mille dell' aiuto
29.01.2022 - 15:36DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Lucia, deve finire la lavorazione del diagramma. Buon lavoro!
30.01.2022 - 20:05DELANGLE FRANCOISE wrote:
Bonjour, Si je comprends bien au premier rang du jacquard de l'empiècement, on tricote 5 mailles de bordure, 18 fois le motif A1, UNE SEULE fois le motif A2 (1 seule maille) puis 5 mailles de bordure. En faisant le calcul je ne comprends pas comment on arrive à 335 mailles à la fin de ce motif. Merci infiniment Merci
05.11.2020 - 16:43DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Delangle, tout à fait, on tricote 1 fois A.2 pour que le motif soit symétrique de chaque côté. Vous avez au début de A.1/A.2: 5 + 18 x 5 + 1 + 5 = 101 m. Augmentez comme indiqué dans A.1 = 13 m dans chaque A.1 = 19 m quand A.1 est terminé: 5 + 18x19 m + 1 + 5 = 335 m. Bon tricot!
05.11.2020 - 17:35Joanna Zawadzka wrote:
Oczywiscie ze ma znaczenie.Porozpoczęciu dzielenia robotki na przody ,rekawy i tył i wrabianiu kolejnego koloru,fiolet dzubki fioletowych trojkatów nie wyjdą dokładnie nad turkusowymi elementami ,to zaburzy wzór.jestem perfekcjonistką ;-)
17.09.2020 - 16:33DROPS Design answered:
To rozumiem :) Jeśli tak to zamknij 1 o. na początku rzędu (za obszyciem ściegiem francuskim) i 1 o. na końcu (przed obszyciem ściegiem francuskim). Tak będzie najprościej dopasować kolejne schematy. Uda ci się na pewno. Powodzenia!
18.09.2020 - 10:41Joanna wrote:
Witam. Po zakonczeniu karczka, w ostatnim rzędzie mam dopasować liczbę oczek do 355,czyli dodac dwa oczka -robię rozmiar XXL.Gdze te oczka powinny sie znajdowac aby nie zaburzyc wzoru.
17.09.2020 - 16:07DROPS Design answered:
Witaj Joasiu, dodajesz te 2 oczka w ostatnim rzędzie schematów A.1 i A.2, które jest wykonane jednym kolorem, zatem miejsce gdzie dodasz oczka nie ma znaczenia. Pozdrawiamy!
17.09.2020 - 16:26Anette wrote:
Jeg liker ikke å strikke frem og tilbake...... Er genseren omtrent like i størrelse slik at jeg kan ta utgangspunkt i den og så lage for oppklipt midt på fremme?
11.02.2020 - 17:56DROPS Design answered:
Hei Anette. Sjekk målskissene nederst på oppskriftene, både til jakken (DROPS 205-3) og genseren (DROPS 205-4) opp mot hverandre og husk å legge til ekstra oppklippsmasker i front. God Fornøyelse!
11.02.2020 - 18:52Piia wrote:
Suomenkielisessä ohjeessa päävärin sanotaan olevan punamulta. Outoa.
22.01.2020 - 06:22Kim wrote:
Beste , op het patroon op het einde van het telpatroon in rij 2 komt een meerdering... deze meerdering komt op de averechtse kant. Klopt dat? En hoe kun je meerderen met een omslag op de averechtse kant ? Hoor graag Groetjes kim
18.12.2019 - 18:44DROPS Design answered:
Dag Kim,
Ja, dat klopt inderdaad, de meerdering komt op de verkeerde kant. De omslag (dus de meerdering) kun je op de volgende naald gedraaid recht breien, zodat er geen gaatje ontstaat.
26.12.2019 - 19:24Theresa Morris wrote:
This looks like a very warm cosy jacket.
08.12.2019 - 10:32Lesley wrote:
Sorry, another silly question. When there is an increase (make 1 ) shown at the end of the chart row, does the newly made stitch become the 1st stitch of the next repeat? For example, row 2 of chart A1 has a M1 at the end. Do I work the last stitch in the repeat in Golden Rod, make 1 in golden rod and then work the next stitch in cerise OR do I work the stitch after the M1 in golden rod? Sorry if I am being a bit dim Thank you
07.11.2019 - 23:39DROPS Design answered:
Hi Lesley, Yes, the new stitch becomes stitch 1 on the next row and the yarn over and then the first stitch in row 3 are both worked in goldenrod. Happy knitting!
08.11.2019 - 07:12