The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= Lavender | |
= Red | |
= Yellow | |
= Light turquoise | |
= Purple | |
= Navy | |
= Knit | |
= Purl |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Oliver |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
DROPS jacket with teddy pattern, pants and socks in “BabyMerino”. Blanket in Karisma. Theme: Baby blanket
DROPS Baby 4-2 |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||
JACKET: Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 35 rows on needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 in stockinette sts = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm). Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*. Pattern: See diagram. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS side. Front and back piece: Knitted in the round on circular needles after the Rib and cut mid front afterwards. Cast on 140-150-160 (180-200) sts on circular needle size 2mm with lavender and knit 2 cm / ¾" Rib back and forth on needle. Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and continue in the round in stockinette st, at the same time inc 6 sts mid front (to be cut afterwards and not included in pattern) and continue in M.1. After M.1 continue in purple. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 17-18-21 (24-24) cm , divide the piece in two and complete front piece = 70-76-80 (90-100) (+ 6 sts) and back piece = 70-74-80 (90-100) sts separately. Front piece: = 70-76-80 (90-100) sts (+ 6 sts). When piece measures 23-25-29 (33-36) cm knit M.2, at the same time bind off the middle 10-14-14 (18-26) sts (+ 6 sts) for neck. Dec to shape the neckline on every other row as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 1 time. Bind off after M.2, piece measures approx 27-29-33 (37-40) cm / 10⅝"-11⅜"-13" (14½"-15¾"). Back piece: = 70-74-80 (90-100) sts. Knit pattern as described for front piece. When piece measures 25-27-31 (35-38) cm cst off the middle 20-22-24 (28-36) sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1 time. Bind off after M.2, piece measures approx 27-29-33 (37-40) cm / 10⅝"-11⅜"-13" (14½"-15¾"). Sleeve: Cast on 44-46-48 (50-52) sts on double pointed needles size 2 mm with lavender and work 2-3-3 (4-4) cm Rib. Change to needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and continue in M.3- make sure to place a pattern repeat mid upper sleeve - at the same time inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 4-6-7 (9-16) times as follows: Size 3 months: on every 8th round Size 6/9 + 12/18 months: on every 7th round Size 2 years: on every 5th and 6th round alternately Size 3/4 years: on every 4th round = 52-58-62 (68-84) sts – incorporate new sts in pattern as you go along. After M.3, continue in light turquoise until piece measures 12.5-16.5-18.5 (17-20) cm . Knit M.4-M.4-M.4 (M.5-M.5) and then complete piece in lavender. bind off when sleeve measures 14-18-20 (22-25) cm . Assembly: Insert a marking thread in the middle of the inc sts mid front. Make 2 seams each side on your sewing machine, the first seam ½ st from the marking thread and the other one ½ st from the first one. Cut the piece between these for mid front. Sew shoulder seams. Left front edge: Pick up approx 64-70-80 (92-100) sts on needle size 2 mm with lavender, P 1 row, 2.5 cm / ⅞" stockinette st, P1 row = folding edge, 2.5 cm / ⅞" stockinette st, bind off. Right front edge: as left front edge, but after 1 cm / ⅜" make 5-5-5 (6-6) buttonholes evenly distributed on row. 1 buttonhole = bind off 3 sts and cast on 3 new sts on return row. Remember buttonholes after folding edge. Fold edges double towards WS and fasten. Neckline: Pick up approx 90-90-95 (100-110) sts round the neck on needle size 2 mm with lavender and knit 1.5 cm Rib, bind off. Set in sleeves and sew on buttons. PANTS: DROPS circular needle size 2 mm and 2.5 mm Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 35 rows on needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 in stockinette sts = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm). Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*. Left leg: Cast on 80-88-88 (96-96) sts on circular needle size 2 mm with lavender and knit 4 cm / 1½" in rib. Change to circular needle 2.5 mm/US 1.5 and continue in Rib, at the same time inc on inside leg on every 2-3-3 (4-5) cm : 2 sts 4 times = 88-96-96 (104-104) sts. Remember the knitting gauge. When piece measures 17-18-20 (25-28) cm divide piece at inside leg (= split) and complete piece back and forth on needle. Inc 1 st each side for seam = 90-98-98 (106-106) sts. When piece measures 18-20-23 (27-30) cm bind off 5-7-3 (5-5) sts each side = 80-84-92 (96-96) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other leg. Right leg: Knit as left leg. Pants: Put left and right in on the same circular needle = 160-168-184 (192-192) sts. Knit 3 rounds and now inc mid back on both sides of the middle 2 sts on every other round: 1 st 8 times, at the same time dec mid front on every other round on both sides of the middle 2 sts: 1 st 8 times = 160-168-184 (192-192) sts. When piece measures 33-39-44 (49-53) change to needle size 2 mm and dec 24-28-34 (32-32) sts evenly on round = 136-140-150 (160-160) sts. Knit 3 cm / 1⅛" stockinette sts, P 1 round, 3 cm / 1⅛" stockinette st, bind off and fold edge double towards WS and fasten. Sew tog split on inside of legs and sew tog the opening between legs from mid front to mid back. SOCKS: Size: 3 – 6/9 – 9/12 months (2 -3/4 years) Foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15) cm DROPS double pointed needles size 2 mm and 2.5 mm/ US 0 an 1.5 Knitting gauge: 28 sts x 38 rows on needles size 2 mm in stockinette sts = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm). Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*. The sock is knitted in the round. Cast on 44-46-48 (50-52) sts on needles size 2 mm/ US 0 with red and work 5-5-6 (7-7) cm Rib. Continue in stockinette st and knit heel as follows: Work 3-3.5–3.5 (4-4.5) cm stockinette stitch back and forth on 22 sts mid back. Heel decreases: Row 1 (= RS): K12, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece, Row 2: slip 1 st as if to P, P4, P2 tog, P1, turn the piece, Row 3: slip 1 st as if to K, K5, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece, Row 4: slip 1 st as if to P, P6, P2 tog, P1, turn the piece, Row 5: slip 1 st as if to K, K7, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece, Row 6: slip 1 st as if to P, P8, P2 tog, P1, turn the piece, Row 7: slip 1 st as if to K, K9, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece, Row 8: slip 1 st as if to P, P10, P2 to, P1, Row 9: K2 tog, K19, K2 tog into back of st = 12 sts left on heel (total 34-36-38 (40-42) sts. Pick up 8 sts on each side of heel = 50-52-54 (56-58) sts. Continue in Rib on the upper 20-22-24 (26-28) sts and stockinette st on remaining sts. At the same time dec 1 st on every other round on both sides of the upper 20-22-24 (26-28) sts a total of 7 times = 36-38-40 (42-44) sts. When foot measures 8-9-11 (12-13) cm from the beg of heel dec, insert a marker each side. Now dec 1 st for toes on each side of marker (4 dec per round) on every round a total of 8-8-8 (9-9) times. Cut the thread and pull though remaining sts. Fasten. BLANKET: Material: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio 350 g color 01, off-white Material: DROPS circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 Knitting gauge: 21 stitches on needles size 3.5 mm = US 4 = width 10 cm = 4". Garter stitch (back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows. Pattern: See diagrams A.1 to A.4. NOTE! If a diagram is finished from right side, start first row on next diagram from wrong side. Pay extra attention that the diagrams show the pattern seen from right side. Blanket: To fit in all stitches work blanket back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 128 stitches with Karisma on circular needle size 3,5 mm = US 4. Work 3 ridges in garter stitch over all stitches. Continue with 4 stitches in garter stitch on each side and PATTERN – read explanation above, on the middle 120 stitches as follows: Work A.3 for approx. 8 cm = 3⅛" - adjust after a whole repeat or half a repeat. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Then work A.4 one time (= 5 rows) Work A.1 for approx. 11 cm = 4⅜" – adjust after a whole repeat or half a repeat. Then work A.4 one time (= 5 rows) Work A.2 for approx. 8 cm = 3⅛". Then work A.4 one time (= 5 rows) Work A.3 for approx. 16 cm = 6¼" - adjust after a whole repeat or half a repeat. Then work A.4 one time (= 5 rows) Work A.1 for approx. 11 cm = 4⅜" – adjust after a whole repeat or half a repeat. Then work A.4 one time (= 5 rows) Work A.2 for approx. 8 cm = 3⅛". Then work A.4 one time (= 5 rows) Work A.3 for approx. 8 cm = 3⅛" - adjust after a whole repeat or half a repeat. Then work 3 ridges in garter stitch over all stitches on row. Piece now measures approx. 82 cm = 32¼" – bind off. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (11)
Joan wrote:
I want to knit the cardigan flat so I don’t need to steek. I’m making the smallest size. Do I cast on the same number of stitches without the six additional ones? I want to make sure the pattern works out correctly.
28.05.2024 - 20:22DROPS Design answered:
Dear Joan, please understand that with many thousands of patterns on our site, we cannot modify them to each individual request. However, we do have a lesson HERE that can help you. Happy Knitting!
28.05.2024 - 22:16Joan wrote:
Can I make this sweater flat instead of in the round? I am a little worried about steeking!
22.03.2024 - 17:39DROPS Design answered:
Dear Joan, if you are not afraid of knitting stranded pattern on the wrong side, then sure, you can. HERE is a lesson that can help you do that. Happy Knitting!
23.03.2024 - 22:56Marian Van Miltenburg wrote:
Goedendag, Helaas kom ik er achter dat ik 1 bol wol tekort heb besteld om alleen het vest te breien. In het patroon staat 100 gr. kleur nr. 8, lavendelblauw. Ik brei het vest echter in andere kleuren. Ik heb ipv lavendelblauw kleurnummer 51 bordeaux dyelot 524056. Zou u mij nog 1 bol toe kunnen sturen met het juiste kleurbad? Klopt het ook dat het marineblauw alleen voor de oogjes gebruikt wordt? (50-50-50 (50-50 gr. kleur nr. 13, marineblauw) Vriendelijke groet, Marian
05.03.2024 - 20:53DROPS Design answered:
Dag Marian,
Het bestellen van garens gaat via een van de verkooppunten die onze artikelen verkopen; wij verkopen geen garens via de site. Via deze link vind je een lijst met verkooppunten.
Marineblauw wordt zo te zien inderdaad alleen voor de ogen gebruikt.
05.03.2024 - 22:25Monica-Yvonne Lund wrote:
Hei, Jeg må forandre pinne nummer på denne oppskriften. Jeg ser dere har angitt strikkefasthet på buksa og strømpene, men det er ikke oppgitt strikkefasthet for Jakka. Kan dere oppgi strikkefasthet for Jakka også slik at jeg kan bruke riktig pinne størrelse?
30.12.2022 - 09:33DROPS Design answered:
Hei Monica-Yvonne, Vrangbord og halsen på jakka strikkes med pinne størrelse 2, bolen med størrelse 2.5 mm. Godt nyttår!
30.12.2022 - 09:57Maria Wise wrote:
What's M.1?
22.11.2020 - 21:52DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Wise, the colour pattern is called M.1 to M.5 - see diagram at the bottom of the page, you work over 10 sts and then see the different patterns on the left/right side = M.1 is the whole diagram in height. Happy knitting!
23.11.2020 - 10:01Annika wrote:
Bilderna för diagrammet visas inte, så det går inte sticka mönstret.
23.08.2018 - 16:49DROPS Design answered:
Hei Annika. Takk for beskjed, dette har nå blitt rettet opp og diagrammene skal være tilgjengelige. God fornøyelse
24.08.2018 - 08:04Anke Wolske wrote:
Hallo, mir ist aufgefallen, dass die Strickschrift in M1 / M3 (die Bärchen) nicht korrekt ist. Es fehlt die rote Schleife, in der Strickschrift ist das Bärchen komplett in lavendel. LG Anke
26.07.2018 - 09:46DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Wolske, Danke für Ihre Rückmeldung, Schleife wird im Diagram korrigiert. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
26.07.2018 - 11:43BIcker Gabriele wrote:
Hallo ich besitze keine Nähmaschine und habe die Wolle gekauft ohne die Anleitung zu lesen. Kann ich die Jacke auch mit Hin und Rückreihen stricken ? lieben Gruss Gaba
27.07.2017 - 08:55DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Gaba, hier lesen Sie mehr, wie Sie die Anleitung anpassen können. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
27.07.2017 - 09:20Astrid Keck wrote:
Was ist eine Mitmasche? Und wie geht das Zunehmen hinten und vorne bei der Hose.
07.02.2016 - 05:14DROPS Design answered:
"Mitmasche" soll "mittlere Masche" bedeuten, also die Masche, die sich an der vorderen und hinteren Mitte befindet. Beidseitig der hinteren mittleren Masche nehmen Sie je 1 M zu und gleichzeitig nehmen Sie beidseitig der vorderen mittleren M je 1 M ab, d.h. Sie nehmen an der hinteren Mitte 2 M zu und an der vorderen Mitte 2 M ab. Das machen Sie in jeder 2. Rd ingesamt 8 x (also 8 Rd mit Zunahmen/Abnahmen), d.h. die M-Zahl bleibt stets gleich. Die Anleitung wird gleich umformuliert, damit das verständlicher wird.
07.02.2016 - 12:49Drops Design wrote:
Bonjour Denise, en fait il faut diminuer en même temps de chaque côté des 2 m centrales au milieu devant de 8 fois 1 m, on conserve ainsi le même nombre de mailles. Le modèle a été corrigé, merci pour votre aide.
22.12.2009 - 11:26