The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
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= sc |
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= ch |
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= 1 tr |
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= 5 tr in ch-space |
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= sc in ch-space |
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= row explained in pattern |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
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Crochet DROPS jacket in "Paris". Size: S - XXXL.
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PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.4. CROCHET INFO: Replace first sc on every sc row with 1 ch. Replace first tr on every tr row with 4 ch. INCREASE TIP: Inc by working 2 sc in 1 sc. ---------------------------------------------------------- JACKET: Worked top down, back and forth from mid front. YOKE: Work 156-166-177-188-198 loose ch (includes 1 ch to turn with) on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Paris. Work 1st row as follows: Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, * 1 sc in each of the next ch 3, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sc in each of the last 2-4-3-2-4 ch = 117-125-133-141-149 sc (= the first row in diagram) - READ CROCHET INFO. Continue to work as follows: A.4 (= band), A.1, A.2 over the next 96-104-112-120-128 sc (= 24-26-28-30-32 times in width), finish with A.3 and A.4 (= band). Work diagram A.z 1 time vertically AT THE SAME TIME on the last 2 rows inc 24-28-32-36-40 sts evenly on each of the rows (= 48-56-64-72-80 sts inc in total) – READ INCREASE TIP above. NOTE: Do not inc over A.4 = 165-181-197-213-229 sts. Then work diagram A.z 1 time vertically (A.2 is now worked 36-40-44-48-52 times in width) AT THE SAME TIME on the last 2 rows inc 22-26-30-34-38 sts evenly on each of the rows (= 44-52-60-68-76 sts inc in total). NOTE: Do not inc over A.4 = 209-233-257-281-305 sts. BODY: NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue to work as follows: A.4, A.1, A.2 over the next 24-28-32-36-40 sc (= 6-7-8-9-10 times in width) (front piece), 8 ch (under sleeve), skip 40-44-48-52-56 sc from previous row (armhole, sts used for sleeve later), A.2 over the next 60-68-76-84-92 sc (back piece), 8 ch (under sleeve), skip 40-44-48-52-56 sc from previous row (armhole, sts used for sleeve later), A.2 over the next 24-28-32-36-40 sc (front piece) and finish with A.3 and A.4. Continue to work as follows: Work A.4, A.1, A.2 over the next 24-28-32-36-40 sc (= 6-7-8-9-10 times in width) (front piece), skip 8 ch (under sleeve), A.2 over the next 60-68-76-84-92 sc (back piece), skip 8 ch (under sleeve), A.2 over the next 24-28-32-36-40 sc (front piece) and finish with A.3 and A.4. Repeat A.z until piece measures approx. 28-28-35-35-35 cm / 11"-11"-13¾"-13¾"-13¾", finish after one whole repetition of A.z. Fasten off. Piece measures approx. 46-48-56-58-59 cm / 18"-19"-22"-22¾"-23¼" from shoulder. SLEEVE: Worked in the round. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Worked top down. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 2 sc in the first ch (of the 8 ch), 1 sc in each of the next 7 ch and 1 sc in each of the 40-44-48-52-56 sc from yoke = 49-53-57-61-65 sc. Continue to work as follows: ch 4, A.1, A.2 over the next 40-44-48-52-56 sts (= 10-11-12-13-14 times in width), finish with A.3 and 1 sl st in fourth ch. Continue like this until piece measures approx. 14-14-21-21-21 cm / 5½"-5½"-8¼"-8¼"-8¼", finish after one whole repetition of A.z. Fasten off. ASSEMBLY: Work a sc edge around the neck to get a nice finish as follows: Work * 1 sc in each of the next ch 3, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sc in each of the last 4-6-5-4-6 ch = 118-126-134-142-150 sc. Sew the buttons on to the left band, approx. 7 cm / 2¾" apart. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (128)
The armhole is just big enough if I crochet the 2 x 8 chains with a 9mm hook, but the next row says skip the 8's, which then makes the armhole much too small again, and would leave under arm holes in finished top. The pattern links to a video showing how to crochet a yoke top, and shows the chains as part of the body, but the pattern says not to do this. And how would you crochet 2nd row of A.z from simple chain stitches anyway? I am tempted to give up!
12.03.2024 - 00:31DROPS Design answered:
Dear Karin, these 8 chain stitches under the sleeve are worked to help enlarge the armhole slightly, so that it won't be too small. You will work on the 8 chain stitches when working the sleeves. Once you join the sleeve to the body, the remaining hole won't be that big. Happy crochetting!
17.03.2024 - 19:01Hallo liebes Team, Wie "überspringe: ich Maschen? Ist es richtig, dass ich 56 Maschen "überspringen" soll? Ich bin verwirrt. LG Petra
07.03.2024 - 18:33DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Reider, um eine Masche zu überspringen wird diese Masche einfach nicht gearbeitet. Ganz am Anfang werden mehr Luftmaschen gehäkelt, als man Maschen braucht, denn die Luftmaschenkette ist oft fester als die nächsten Reihe danach, deshalb beginnt man hier mit mehr Luftmaschen als man feste Maschen braucht. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!
08.03.2024 - 08:18I've crocheted the yoke and row with 2 sets of 8 chains in it. Measuring the piece it's 22 across neck, 14 for shoulder/yoke depth, and 44 body width. However, sleeve depth is 14, not 18, and armhole is way too tight. How can this happen if everything else measures correctly? How best to fix this, please - very loose chaining for the 8, or chain 12 and add extra A2's to body, or skip 44 or 48 for sleeve instead of 40? Or something else? Thanks in advance
06.03.2024 - 22:34DROPS Design answered:
Dear Karin, if your tension is correct you might just have to crochet these 8 chains loosely to avoid losing tension and let you keep the correct finished measurements. Happy crocheting!
07.03.2024 - 08:11Thanks. Sorry, another query, I'm new to crocheting garments. I've chained 156 loose chains for size small, and done the double crochet row, skipping every 4th chain as instructed. If tension is 14 stitches to 10cm, should the resulting 117 stitches measure 84cm? This seems big for the neckline, and mine is even bigger. Before I undo, and just do normal (rather than loose) chains, it would help to know what length I'm aiming for, please.
17.02.2024 - 15:09DROPS Design answered:
Dear Karin, the gauge is 14 dtr, that is, double treble crochets. These are worked very differently from double crochets, so you can't apply the gauge of the pattern to the neckline. You can see the necessary length for the neck in the size chart: approx. 44cm (22 cm is half the neck in the size chart). Your gauge when working the neckline should be very different from the 14 stitches to 10cm of the dtr; the 117 stitches should be approx. 44cm. Happy crochetting!
18.02.2024 - 22:41I've crocheted my tension square, and it's the correct tension, but I've then crocheted a whole A.Z section, with A4, A1, A2 and A3, and the tension has come out looser in height - the 3 rows of double treble in the lacework measure 6.1cm instead of the 5.5cm it measured when I was just doing standard rows of double trebles. Is this normal, or are the lace rows meant to come out the same height as double treble rows do?
13.02.2024 - 19:08DROPS Design answered:
Dear Karin, lace is generally softer, and looser, but you can compensate for that, by changing to a smaller hook. Make sure, that your finished piece is blocjed to the size of the schematic drawing found at the bottom of the pattern. Happy Crafting!
14.02.2024 - 02:47Creo que la sisa sería así: sólo hacer 3 cadenas si no quieres aumentar más "V" bajo la manga, y si quieres aumentar, tendrían que ser un nº de cadenas múltiplo de 4 +3, o sea, 7, 11, etc. y en la siguiente fila sería así: 5 puntos altos dobles en cada "V" y al llegar a las cadenas: *saltar 3 cadenas, y hacer 5 puntos altos dobles en la siguiente cadena*, las veces que necesites y después saltar 3 cadenas y hacer 5 puntos altos dobles en la siguiente "V"
27.12.2022 - 18:56Hola,estoy completamente liada no entiendo bien el gráfico. En la segunda hilera de a-z según entiendo hay que hacer: en A2 1pad,1cad,1pad y 3cad= 6 puntos q sacamos de 4 ( si lo multiplicamos por 24 veces salen 144)+ los 7 q salen de A1+ 4 q salen de A3+ 12 de borde= 167 puntos
28.09.2021 - 21:17DROPS Design answered:
Hola Pilar, A.2 (= 4 puntos), 4x24 son 96 puntos. A.1 (=6 puntos) + A.3 (= 3 puntos) y A.4/ los bordes son 12 puntos (6 a cada lado). Por lo que se tienen 117 puntos para la talla S. Tienes que contar el número de puntos según el número de puntos bajos debajo; las cadenetas no cuentan como puntos, solo se utilizan para formar el dibujo de calados.
06.10.2021 - 23:07Hej! Jag håller på att virka koftan w-524. Allt har gått bra, men när jag ska börja virka fortsättningen efter mönstret där arbetet ska mätas vet inte jag om jag fortfarande ska öka på fm-varven eller inte t ex öka 26 fm jämt fördelade på båda fm-varven? Det syns ju inte på diagrammet.? Tack! /Carina
03.07.2021 - 20:56DROPS Design answered:
Hej Carina, når du fortsætter med fram- och bakst skal du ikke øke mere :)
14.07.2021 - 11:09Liebes DROPS-Team , ich fange gerade mit dem Armloch an. Sehe ich das richtig: A2 endet jeweils mit 3 Luftmaschen, dann 8 Luftmaschen , also insgesamt 11 LM, bevor die Maschen für das Armloch übersprungen werden?
27.02.2021 - 14:36DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Lindemann, ja genau, Sie sollen A.2 in der Breite wiederholen, so brauchen Sie diese 3 Luftmaschen vor den 8 Lm - wenn Sie dann die Ärmel häkeln, nicht vergessen, daß 3 von den 8 sind die von Rumfpteil. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!
01.03.2021 - 08:16Dear Drops Design, After work first 3raws (for the yoke part, size L) the lenght is 117 cm, it is super big for the neck. I checked it's 10 cm for 14 tr and the tension looks similar to photo. Could you tell me tge approximate length of first 166 loose ch?
23.11.2020 - 09:53DROPS Design answered:
Dear Lillia, at the very beginning you are casting on much more chains (177 in size L) than you will have double crochets on the first row (= 133 dc on first row) - since the chains are more often quite tight, you cast on more chains and skip chains evenly on first row, this means you should have 133 dc at the end of first row = approx. 95 cm width. Happy crocheting!
23.11.2020 - 10:39