DROPS Muskat uni colour 100% Cotton |
2.80 $ /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Muskat uni colour 100% Cotton 2.80 $ /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= ch 1 | |
= 1 sc in ch-loop | |
= sl st |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
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DROPS Girl’s Crocheted Cardigan in Muskat
DROPS 90-16 |
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Crochet gauge: 4.5 ch-loops in width and 10 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm. Pattern: See the diagrams. Back: Ch 79-85-91-97-109. Crochet the first row as follows: 1 sc in 7th ch from hook, * ch 5, skip over 5 ch, 1 sc in the next ch *, repeat * - * = 13-14-15-16-18 ch-loops, turn the work. Continue as follows: ch 6, 1 sc in first ch-loop, * ch 5, 1 sc in the next ch-loop *, repeat * - * across row and turn the work. When the piece measures 25-27-29-30-31 cm bind off for armhole as follows: crochet as before until 1 ch-loop remains, turn the work, continue with ch- loops and repeat bind off at the other side – see Diagr.1A. You have now bound off 1 ch-loop at each side = 11-12-13-14-16 ch-loops. Continue to crochet as before. When the piece measures 36-39-42-44-46 cm dec for the neck by crocheting 2 rows over only 3-3-4-4-5 ch-loops on each shoulder (do not crochet over the center 5-6-5-6-6 ch-loops). The piece measures approx. 38-41-44-46-48 cm, cut yarn and fasten. Right front: Ch 43-43-49-49-55. Crochet as on back = 7-7-8-8-9 ch-loops. When the piece measures 25-27-29-30-31 cm bind off for armhole at side as on back = 6-6-7-7-8 ch-loops on row. When the piece measures 33-35-38-39-41 cm dec for the neck following Diagr.1B. You have now bound off 3 ch-loops for the neck and 3-3-4-4-5 ch-loops remain on shoulder. Continue until piece measures 38-41-44-46-48 cm, then cut yarn and fasten. Left front: Crochet same as the right, reversing shaping. Assembly: Crochet the shoulder together as follows: 1 sl st in first ch-loop on back, ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-loop on front, ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-loop on back. Sleeve: The sleeve is crocheted from the top down as follows: Crochet 12-13-14-14-15 ch-loops in armhole, with 5 ch in each ch-loop. Crochet back and forth in the same manner as on Body. When the piece measures 2 cm from beginning, put a marker at each side - measure the work from here. When the piece measures 2-2-3-3-3 cm dec 1 ch-loop at one side – see Diagr.1A. When the piece measures 12-13-15-16-17 cm dec 1 ch-loop at the other side. Repeat dec at each side 1 more time with 10-11-12-13-14 cm between decs at each side = 8-9-10-10-11 ch-loops remain. Continue until piece measures 40-43-47-50-53 cm from the marker, then cut yarn and fasten. Assembly: Crochet sleeve and side seams in the same manner as shoulder seams were crocheted together. Sew sleeves at lower edge of armhole with a small st where you bound off 1 ch-loop on Body. Neckband: Crochet 2 rows of sc around the neck (1st row crochet from wrong side) – crochet approx. 3 sc in each ch-loop – see that the edge is not too tight or too loose. Left button band: Crochet 4 rows of sc up along left front (including over neckband – crochet the 1st row from wrong side) – crochet approx. 3 sc in each ch-loop = approx. 99-105-114-117-123 sc, turn each row with ch 1. Right button band: Crochet the same as the left, but after 2 rows, make 5 buttonholes evenly distributed on button bands. The bottom buttonhole place approx. 2 cm from lower edge and the top one 2 sts from the top edge . 1 buttonhole = ch 2, skip over 2 sc, 1 sc in the next st. On the next row crochet 2 sc in ch-loop. Sew on buttons. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (29)
Dominique wrote:
Die Jacke hat Spaß gemacht + ging ziemlich schnell. Leider finde ich die Anleitung sehr unvollständig, vieles wird nicht erwähnt, wie man was machen soll und stellenweise ist sie nicht korrekt. Das krasseste Bsp. ist die Maschenanzahl an der Blende vorn - ich habe die Größe 7-8 Jahre gehäkelt, dafür sollte ich 105 Maschen aufnehmen. Das geht nicht, dann wird es total wellig! Ich habe weniger als 60 Maschen gebraucht. Die Ärmellänge ist mit Vorsicht zu genießen - besser anprobieren.
02.05.2024 - 07:33Marianne Kristoffersen wrote:
Jag virkar med garnet Muskat. Det lila Colour 14 Dyelot 688, är fast spunnet= bra! Det vita är så löst spunnet, Colour 14, Duelot 806. Det är köpt 2024.03.10. DET BLIR STOR SKILLNAD på resultatet!! :((\r\n\r\nVad ska jag göra? Är det något fel på det vita garnet?? \r\n\r\nMed vänlig hälsning, \r\nMarianne
05.04.2024 - 09:48Marianne Kristoffersen wrote:
Hej, jag lägger upp 91 maskor med virknål 3,5. När jag mäter 4 och1/2 båge stämmer måttet 10 cm, MEN NÄR JAG SEDAN MÄTTER PÅ MÅTTSKISSEN stämmer inte måttet på virkningen. STÄMMER MÅTTET PÅ SKISSEN??? Hela måttet är 8 cm större än 33 cm. VAD SKA MÅTTET VARA?? Mvh Marianne Kristoffersen
25.03.2024 - 08:41DROPS Design answered:
Hej Marianne, hækler du i DROPS Muskat? Hvis du har 15 lm buer, og 4,5 lm-buer på 10 cm så får du 15 / 4,5 = 33 cm
03.04.2024 - 15:25Lisbeth wrote:
Hvordan jeg hækler dette! Når arb måler 2-2-3-3-3 cm lukkes der 1 lm-bue i den ene side - se Diag.1A. Når arb måler 12-13-15-16-17 cm lukkes der 1 lm-bue i den anden side. Hilsen Lisbeth
09.07.2023 - 16:10DROPS Design answered:
Hei Lisbeth. Jo, du hekler frem og tilbake på samme måte som bolen, men når arbeidet måler 2-2-3-3-3 cm hekler du 1 luftmaskebue mindre, se diagram 1A. Og når arbeidet måler 12-13-15-16-17 cm felles det 1 lm-bue i den andre siden. Så gjentas disse fellingen i høyre og venstre side en gang til med 10-11-12-13-14 cm mellom hver gang det felles til det er 8-9-10-10-11 lm-buer igjen. mvh DROPS Design
24.07.2023 - 13:01Els De Witte wrote:
Ik ben met de maat 13 -14 bezig en ik bedoel de bogen van de ene kant van de armsgaten naar de andere kant de schouders zijn al aan elkaar gehaakt jullie schrijven over 15 bogen maar ik kom op 22 bogen uit wat moet ik doen graag antwoord hier op bedankt
19.02.2023 - 18:32DROPS Design answered:
Dag Els,
Aha, je hebt te veel boogjes in het armsgat om op 15 boogjes uit te komen. Wat je zou kunnen doen (als je wel tevreden bent over de afmeting van het armsgat) is toch 22 boogjes maken en daarna wat vaker te minderen, zodat de mouw bij de pols wel de juiste maat krijgt.
22.02.2023 - 13:29Els De Witte wrote:
Ik heb de voor pant en de rug samen gehaakt ik kom nu op 22 bogen uit als ik ze samen optel hoe komt het dat jullie op 15 bogen zitten wat doe ik verkeerd gelieve mij een antwoord er op de geven bedankt
19.02.2023 - 09:32DROPS Design answered:
Dag Els,
Als ik de bogen van de kleinste maat van beide voorpanden en het achterpand bij elkaar optel (13+7+7) , dan kom ik op 27 bogen. Welke maat ben je aan het breien en welke bogen samen optellen bedoel je precies?
19.02.2023 - 16:55Els De Witte wrote:
Als ik 109 l haak dan kom ik op 21 bogen wat doe ik verkeerd En ben ik juist dat elke toer = 1cm is Gelieve mij iets de laten weten bedankt op voorhand
11.02.2023 - 01:31DROPS Design answered:
Dag Els,
Als je 109 lossen haakt en je haakt de eerste vaste in de 7e losse vanaf de haaknaald = eerste boogje), dan heb je nog 102 lossen over. Als je steeds 5 lossen overslaat, 5 lossen haakt en in de 6e losse een vaste haakt, dan kom je precies op nog 17 (102 delen door 6) boogjes.
12.02.2023 - 17:51Priscilla DAgostino wrote:
In the diagram there seems to be some kind of a finish at the end of the sleeve but there was nothing in the instructions on what you should do. What do you do at the end of the sleeve?
18.09.2021 - 18:37DROPS Design answered:
Dear Priscilla, there is no differently patterned cuff on the sleeves, that is just the last few cm that should be straight (and might be folded up, if it is to long). Happy Stitching!
19.09.2021 - 00:50Maibritt wrote:
Hej Drops Jeg skal i gang med ærmerne, men er lidt lost. Jeg hækler i str 12 år. Ifølge opskriften skal jeg hækle over 14 lm buer, men jeg har 17, hvad gør jeg med de sidste 3? Jeg har ikke talt den aflukkede lm bue med, altså den der udgør, hvor ærmegabet starter
14.09.2021 - 01:06DROPS Design answered:
Hei Maibritt. Stemmer heklefastheten din i høyden? Om du får flere enn 10 rader pr 10 cm, vil du få for mange luftmaskebuer du skal hekle over. mvh DROPS Design
28.09.2021 - 08:21Kalpana Chetty wrote:
Are the sleeves not too long? Seems a bit long for me when I look at the cardigan?
09.03.2021 - 21:39DROPS Design answered:
Dear Kalpana, the longer than usual trumpet sleeves are an intentional desing element on this piece, not in the least because it is a child's sweater, and having the sleeves knitted bit longer means, they will grow out of it later. Happy Crafting!
09.03.2021 - 22:30